On the Bolerama Discussion Forum there are innumerable (well... at least a couple dozen) folks who are Boler, Trillium, Scamp, Casita and various-other-incarnations-of-fiberglass-eggsperts. Honest. They've been there... they've done that. WHATEVER she says you should do, some guy somewhere has tried the same thing and (get this) that person is willing to SHARE that profound experiencial knowledge with us all.
Following is a collection of tips gleaned from the Bolerama Forum some time ago which cover everything from batteries to windows. BE ADVISED>>> there are NO guarantees offered here. Please don't write to me and complain that it didn't work! For that reason, I haven't even included the names of the folks who originally contributed these tips. I've simply ripped off what they've said verbatim (except for some spelling corrections) and saved 'em. No credit is given except that I'll say here - in all sincerity - THANKS, EVERYBODY!
If these tips don't help, get over it. Then get out there, do it right and let me know how it's SUPPOSED to be done. :-) I'll be happy to put YOUR tip up here with the rest.
(click on what it is you want to know)
WHAT TO LOOK FOR IN BUYING A BOLER (or Trillium, or Scamp, or Casita, or Burro....)
* The biggest thing to watch out for is the condition of the frame. There should be little rust and no cracks. These little eggs are light and tend to bounce a bit. The second thing to check is the condition of the underside of the flooring, it is only plywood with a resin or plastic coating. (ed. note: Trilliums are fiberglass all the way around. Even the floor.) Third check the appliances, the fridge and heater are prone to problems, have them demonstrate them.
OK, you know what to look for here is what not to despair about. The hitches can be replaced cheap, parts and labor under $100.00 The axles and hubs, cheap, parts and labor under $300.00. Any small cracks and chips in the shell (Fiberglass) $10.00 to $100.00.
Don't be afraid these little eggs are not as fragile as there smaller kin. Seldom will you find a trailer with several big problems, most often they have been neglected from owners who moved on.
The windows are the only difficult items and that is only if you want to keep it original. Because it is a fiberglass shell you can resize the window opening and put almost any RV Window in. Most of the problems with the windows can be repaired by a handy set of hands.
Now back to the three points of what to look for.
Frame, can be welded and reinforced easily by any reputable RV Dealer (Pricey) or Metal fabricator (Cheaper, often seen as a novelty for the person) Floor, this should be the first actually, if the floor, the plywood and not the lino, is rotting or badly damaged you will need to do an off the frame rebuild!!!!! (ed. note: SEE above ed. note.) This takes lot's of time and a variety of skills. If it is solid or only slightly damaged / breaking down, it can be treated with a fungicide and undercoated. $100.00 complete.
The third is the furnace / fridge. Actually the furnace is not bad to repair but often is sold as working when it is not! The fridge; some parts are readily available but others are not available at all. New fridge, one G note!!! (ed. note: $100 dollars American... I think :-) Ice may seem cheaper!!!
$500.00 for a fixer upper to $3500.00 for a fully restored number.
ALUMINUM RESTORATION
* I had great luck restoring the shine to our Trillium window frames using a product called Autosol. It is available from Canadian Tire in tube form. (ed. note to Americans: Canadian Tire is mentioned all over this site as THE source for stuff. Either save your bucks and head north for a big shopping spree or run over to WalMart or your nearest marine supply store and probably find the same things there.)
* I found steel wool (and some elbow grease) restored my aluminum to look new again. I used coarse for the first round (to get all the build up off), and then used super fine to shine it up. It has stayed shiny for 2 summers now.
* NeverDull works great on aluminum. Hubby is a shine freak and uses Neverdull on everything he can put a shine on. Has been outside using it on his new aluminum box rails. Works great.
* Penetrol, the wonder product, also works on aluminum. Soak some steel wool in Penetrol and polish the aluminum, then wipe dry. Works great.
* If you rub / polish the aluminum with fine steel wool, then use some "Boat Airplane RV wax" it will shine as good as or better than the day it was new. The "wax" is a rubbing compound type paste that is generally available at marine supply stores. It's handy stuff to have around for lots of other refinishing jobs.
* Lemon extract and a little moisture will make it shine, an old navy trick, apply with a rag as you would shine your shoes.
* We found an axle in Calgary, AB. The place is Standens Axles the phone number is 1-800-663-7800 ask for Wayne. We paid a total price of $237.11 last year, FOB Calgary. We had to send the orginal axle to them whereupon they made a new one. HOWEVER>>> I learned that to be efficient, the axle arms should be trailing not pointing forward as orginal was. I did major modifications to mount the axle with the arms trailing, the correct position within the wheel well and to obtain the height I wanted. It rides much smoother now with no pothole shock to the axle rubbers.
Princess Auto axle's were too stiff. Our orginal axle was rated at 1200 lbs. The axle we got from Standons was 1400 lbs. We were sent to Standons by Princess Auto. By having our axle made we were able to use our old hubs and rims.
BATTERY
* Batteries & Inverters:
We use our boat battery. They are a gel cell (no mess) battery that will tolerate being run totally flat and re-charged again, and again. The look like a car battery - complete with a handle.
I keep the battery in the back of our Jeep. When we get to camp I just set the battery on the ground under the Boler and plug it into the wiring harness through the same connector that hooks to the Jeep when we are towing (for signals / brake lights etc.) The two interior lights on either end of the upper cupboards are 12 volt DC and work fine off the battery.
If I want 115 Volt AC (house type power) I use alligator clips to connect a 200 watt inverter to the battery terminals. The AC power cord from the trailer then plugs into the inverter. With the inverter on the light over the sink works, and all (both) the receptacles are powered. This set up will not power an electric frig, but works fine for a radio / television / laptop computer, cell phone etc. Also with an extension cord to a small table lamp on the picnic table and the outside is lit up too.
With moderate use (not leaving lights on when not needed - like I do at home) we usually get all the light / power we need for 2 - 3 days.
If things do run low just take the trailer battery to the front of your car, put booster cables from your car battery to the trailer battery and run the car for about 20 minutes. That tops the trailer battery up for another few days.
You could just connect the trailer and inverter directly to your car battery ... but if you kill that battery it's game over for the car too. I've seen the Auto Club do a lot of boosting in trailer parks for people that have that type of set up.
Marine batteries, and inverters seem to be getting cheaper every year.
Canadian Tire has the batteries and inverters for around $100. (each)
* The charging of your trailer battery depends on several factors.
1)What type of battery are you using in the trailer, a car type or a true RV battery. RV batteries like to be charged up slowly.
2) The amperage that you vehicle alternator puts out and the size of wiring coming from the alternator to the trailer battery. The large the gauge of wire the less resistance, thus the better the flow of the electrical current.
3) The overall length from the alternator to the trailer battery, length means resistance and resistance means loss of power delivered.
4) I have at present 2 of the largest Interstate RV batteries that there is. They are connected in parallel. My vehicle will not charge these batteries on a trip, as a true RV battery really doesn't like the way a car or van charging system works. The van alternator will maintain the battery charge though and if I run a small 12-volt fridge inside the trailer, the batteries maintain their charge.
* One of the first things I put on my Boler was a bike rack. The upright supports flank the spare tire on both sides and I have a cross member across the top. That is where I put the hooks to hold the bikes. It is attached on the bumper at the bottom of the uprights with bolts laying above and below the actual bumper channel through a piece of flat bar. I went this way because I hoped it would distribute the torsional load better.Also I made it just wide enough that I could get at the spare with out taking off the rack. It has worked good for me. I even mounted a small tube on it to store my awning poles and flag poles. I considered a one spot attachment but waved off the idea unless I strenghten the whole bumper.My rack is not off the store shelve and I can't say I have seen something similar.
* I too thought about that bike thing for my boler a few years ago and did a lot of thinking and checking it all out first, I am just that way. I own a 17' and it is not all that different from the little eggs. The bumpers are not that strong (thickness). It all depends on how many bikes you want to carry. Like most of us that have families, it would be a minimum of a least 2 and probably 4. I weighted the other halves and mine and the weight came to around 70 lbs , then add on the twins bikes. The welding manufacturing shop said that if I really valued my bikes and the people's lives that were for sure at some time following my trailer and should the bumper give out, people would surely get hurt.
I too wanted to have a 2" reciever style carrier, so as to be able to interchange with my van if needed.
The welding company had done many of these before. They extended the 2" reciever by 3' or 4 ' so that now the reciver was entirely one length. They then bent this length at an angle so as to be attached to a channel iron further under the trailer. They then took a long piece of very thick channel iron and welded it with the flat side against the inside edge of the bumper, so it was in place between the bumper and the trailer body. The 2" reciever was then welded to this channel iron and then the extended portion was further welded to another channel iron that had been welded between both of the trailer rails.
The fabricator told be that when there is weight such as bikes extending over as they do on a carrier that there is a lot of flexing going on and now that the reciever was attached in two places the flexing would be distributed over the whole frame and and not at just one point of attachment
Sorry for the length , it cost around $125 and they even painted it all.
* I put a rack on the back of my Boler that carries 2 bikes and is not attached to the back bumper except for the fact that the rack sits on the bumper for a base.
I went to Canadian Tire and bought 4 heavy duty chrome hooks part#09090. Then I took my good CCM bike rack which has foam protected pieces that won't scratch anything. It's a good quality rack, bought at Canadian Tire and its attached by straps that can be pulled up very tight. I've used it on my car for a year now.
I mounted the 4 hooks spaced 6 feet apart and 3 feet above each other and bolted them to the shell using stainless steel hardware with flat washers on the inside.
Mounted the hooks, mounted the rack (without any modifications) and mounted the bikes.This 4 hook arrangement can also be used for other things when the rack is off.
* Been following this thread on Bike racks and just to play devils advocate;
Placing the rack on the rear suggests two problems to me:
1.) They could get damage on the road or backing up the trailer. Minor detail if your careful.
2.) The weight ratio on the 13 foots is VERY delicate. You are already filling your water tank, behind the axle, and if you're like most people I have seen the bed becomes storage on the road. The bikes are extending extra weight behind the axle.
Don't panic yet! Consider making a mount on the tongue, there is plenty of room up there, or consider extending your hitch bar and mounting the rack to the top of the hitch bar.
This allows you to see the bikes, keeps them between the trailer and tow vehicle. If you go with the hitch bar extension you can simply park your trailer and drive down the road to the trail head.
Just some thoughts for you to consider.
DOOR (Trillium)
* The door may only need a new pin or two in its hinges. My '74 is starting that. If you can lift the door by the handle you will be able to see if it's the pins (the hinges will stay still while the door moves). If it's the hinge mounts to the doorframe then you'll see the hinges themselves move in relation to the body.
The frame I'm told is wood behind the fiberglass so larger screws may work.
* If the screw hole is stripped (NOT rotted wood), you don't want to use a longer screw. It won't bite THAT much and will likely just strip out again quickly. A better solution is to cram little short pieces of hardwood into the hole (ie toothpicks, wooden cooking skewers, that sort of thing) to fill the space as much as possible. When you put the screw back in, it'll wedge out the wooden bits and lock into the formerly stripped hole very securely. Can't promise it'll work on the trailer, but it's worked for plenty of projects around the home. Sure I COULD have replaced that whole door jam because of one little hole... :)
* Ok, I know this isn't probably the correct way to fix this problem, BUT it works. I removed the screw that holds the "thingy" that the door catches on (from the outside, it's on the left as you enter) and added a rubber gasket and then a larger metal washer and a locking nut. When the door shuts, by catching further in it pulls the door tight. I am only increasing the gaskets one at a time letting the door get use to the new tension then when it gaps a wee bit I add another gasket. The total now used is 2 rubber and 1 metal and the door is perfectly sealed. I used a longer screw than was there and the part that sticks out past the nut on the inside is now used to hold the end piece of a chain link I rivited under the door lock. All I have to do is slip one of the links over the end of the screw and now I have a second door lock. I do have to push a wee bit from the outside or pull from the inside to have the latch catch, but wa-la, the door seals perfectly.
DOOR SEAL (Boler)
* We found a seal by going to a truck canopy place and they had one that would fit our door. There are several different sizes so be careful and take samples of theirs to see what will fit your door.
ELECTRIC DRAW
* If you have a connector for DC operation such as a cigarette lighter adapter you can check to see what your computer's battery is rated at, this info should be right on the battery. Volts, amps, watts. You can compare this with your run time on the laptop battery and your deep cycle. I could help you with the estimated draw and run time if you post the info.
If you use an inverter you loose a lot of power, I know they say things like ?super efficient? but they just simply are not and anything mounted in our little eggs that is original is going to be even less. The inverters packaging will offer a pretty good idea of run time for various electronics with an average deep cycle battery as well.
* I've been messing with inverters from Canadian Tire. It's the wattage that you should be concerned with. A 600 watt inverter sells for 200 dollars not a bad price. If you go to 1000 watts it runs around 500 dollars (ouch). A 300 watt sells for 80 dollars but it's only good for light work like computers and lights etc. Bottom line is..,volts(110) times amps eguals watts or another way if you know the wattage of your coffee maker (stated on the back) go out and buy the one that suits.
* Depends on what you mean by "rewire the trailer".
There are 2 issues here:
- current required by the kettle.
- ability of the wiring to carry the required current.
Wire from the converter to the "plug": Most "120V" kettles draw approximately 1500 W or about 12.5 Amps. If you are drawing this much current you need the same type of wire that is in the walls of your house (14 AWG - it's rated for 15 Amps). If your wire is smaller than this, you could be in trouble. If you have a 15 Amp converter, it should be able to power your kettle without any difficulty. If it does not, there are a couple of things to look at...
Battery Condition: Is the battery charged and in good condition? It's not magic. The power has to come from somewhere, and the converter is nowhere 100% efficient. If the battery is not topped up, and canot deliver it's rated current output, the converter will "run flat". It will deliver the voltage (120VAC) but not the current (15A).
Wiring from the battery to the converter: If the battery is ok, check the wiring from the battery to the converter. Same as with house wiring, if the wire is too small, the battery will not be able to deliver it's max current to the converter, and the converter will run flat. In general, thicker wires are better. Hint - if the wires are heating up noticably, this might be the problem.
Converter efficiency: In general, older converters are less efficient than new ones. While the latest Trace (TM) converter might be 90% efficient, converters from the 70 might be only 70% efficient.
Hype: Oh, yeah, marketing... that 15 Amp converter might only ever have been able to kick out 8 Amps... The upshot is, a 15 Amp (1800 Watt) converter _should_ be able to run the kettle. Installing the 30 A (3600 W) converter might not solve the problem.
Check these other issues first, and remember, we're playing with electricity here. Be carefull.
* The best thing to do is to add a circuit breaker and new outlets that bypass your converter.
Buy a 3 breaker circuit breaker, I think its 30 amp you need. Attach the trailers electrical cord to the IN of the circuit breaker. Attach your power converter to one breaker. Add an outside ground default outlet to the side of your trailer. Closet area is the easiest. Use standard house 14 gauge wire. This goes to number 2 circuit breaker. Then add an inside outlet in the galley area on circuit number 3.
This way your power converter is left fully functional for small draw items. If necessary you can also easily shut it down by flipping the breaker. (the hum of those converters drive me nuts at night)
You also have one inside and one outside outlet for heavy draw items like toasters, coffee machine etc.
Buying a circuit breaker box is much cheaper than a new converter.
Of course the absolute cheapest and easiest is to run an extension cord straight from the campsite service to your coffee maker. We've done that before.
FIBERGLASS REPAIR
* Concerning the holes ... I note someone has already mentioned the holes can be repaired by a fibreglass "expert" ... if you're a bit more adventurous you can pick up fibreglass repair kits for about $10.00 at Home Depot, Canadian Tire or any shop that sells marine fittings. (ed. note: I am NOT to be held accountable for the way these folks from points north spell the word "fiberglass".) However IMO the latter tend to be quite a bit more expensive. Working with fibreglass isn't that difficult ... sand around the hole, if the hole is large use fibreglass cloth or mat or if it isn't large use the fibreglass paste type material. Basically, the process consists of mixing resin (similar to corn syrup) with a catalyst type substance (syrup type liquid) which comes in a small vial then soaking the fibreglass mat or cloth in this mixture, placing it in and around the hole and permitting it to dry. Later you can sand it and fill in the smaller holes with gel coat (similar to body putty). The above explanation is simplified but should give you the general drift ... should you purchase a fibreglass repair kit or visit a store/shop that specializes in fibreglass I'm sure they will have instructions that accompany their product.
Some would say gel coat IS spot putty.
When they make a fibreglass boat for instance first they wax the mould then spray it to the desired thickness with gel coat ... next come the layers of fibreglass matting and/or cloth (also referred to as roving) which, over time are built up layer by layer to the desired thickness for strength. After the boat has been fitted out and used for a period of time the outside (read gel coat side) gradually gets nicks and scratches. Depending upon how large a nick or scratch these are for the most part repaired using a fibreglass gel coat i.e. a fibreglass resin & catalyst mixture and/or if necessary some fibreglass matting. If you're going to paint over the repair I believe you could probably get away with using automotive spot putty, marine-tex or any other good quality body putty. On the other hand, if memory serves me correct it's possible to color gel coat by adding a tint however you will more than likely have to go to a fibreglass shop to obtain this. If this is the way you want to go ... if it were me I'd also purchase my fibreglass repair material from the same shop. Fibreglass has a certain mystique about it until you work with it a couple of times. You mentioned epoxy and for the most part epoxy should also be able to effect minor repairs as well as fibreglass.
I don't know how deep your gouges are but fiberglass body filler such as Bondo does a great job. I would roughen up the area and remove any loose material. After mixing in hardner, spreading it is somewhat like spreading peanut butter. I make my application tools from old plastic containers and I mix the filler on a thick chunk of cardboard. The most important tool is a body file which can be purchased at Canadian Tire. With a body file, you can get the contour almost perfect before sanding. The little pit holes that sometimes appear can be filled with spot putty.
* Before you fill large holes, be sure to chamfer them. Use a drill bit or small grinder. Be careful with the drill bit though. use VERY LIGHT pressure. The drill bit tends to dig in and chip the gelcoat easily. In this way you can build up your repair level with the surface and sand and feather the edges.
FURNACE
(ed. note: Folks from Miami are free to ignore this section.)
* The pilot light just won't stay lit, that is to say that it lights just fine initially but then goes out when I stop pressing the red button. The propane stove works just fine. Does anyone have any ideas, or know if I need to get something replaced?
* It may be is that your trailer may not have been level. I had problem's with every appliance at different times until I went out and bought some leveling jacks from Walmart for $15 and a floor level. I even had trouble with the electricity unless that thing was completely level or close to it as possible. If your pilot is lighting I would venture to say that it wouldn't be anything serious. I once took my fridge apart because I thought it was broken, but turned out just not level. Learned a lot about the fridge though:)
* Your thermocouple is probably 'toast' (couldn't help the pun). They are usually easy to remove/replace. Sometimes just loosening their retaining nut and retightening them will reduce poor conductivity and it may start to work again. It could also be that the control valve itself is 'toast'. Try the loosen tighten procedure first. Then try replacing the thermo couple. Or take it to certified gas technician.
* I know this is a new reply to an old message, but I recently experienced this pilot light situation. The conditions were the same as posted, i.e., pilot wouldn't stay lit. I also tried various things that were mentioned in other replies, like holding the pilot valve open so long that my fingers cramped! Although the thermocouple "looked good" (not toast), I was aware that they can be weak as well as broken, so bought a replacement. Before opening the package to the new part, I began loosening the existing unit at the valve (not furnace) portion. My first effort with the wrench felt as if the wrench was not engaged. Only then did I find that the valve end of the thermocouple was completely loose -- not even finger tight. Needless to say, I didn't need the new part, and am happy to report that the priming the thermocouple does not require an inordinant amount of time, and the furnace now works flawlessly.
* When trying to light my furnace for the first time, I noticed the instructions said to wait until the blower starts, before lighting pilot. Well, my blower never did start so....
After some Internet investigating, I pulled the cover off the thermostat I noted the tiny Anticipator wire was broken. This was listed as a somewhat common reason for thermostat failure.
I moved the adjusting arm down until it made contact with the other end where the wire "stub" was attached, and BINGO, within seconds the blower started.
The furnace now runs without a hitch. Depending on how this "fix" effects the thermostat's ability to keep the interior comfy, I may replace the thermostat.
Maybe this troubleshooting tidbit will help someone else with their furnace problems.
* It is not recommended to use your furnace with out the fan/blower. Two things factor in, heat and gases.
If you don't use the blower the furnace will run too hot, this can cause gases in your trailer and fire/melting damage to the furnace and surrounding areas.
* If there is an outside vent then it is a forced air furnace, with a draw of fresh air from outside for the combustion chamber and an internal vent for the blower to pass air over the combustion chamber. Earlier Bolers had radiant catalytic heaters, were the surfaces are heated by the radiant heat of a pad slowing burning gas directly inside the trailer. The furnace is safer, but the radiant heater reduces the condensation problem and has no draw on the battery for a blower. The safety issue can be addressed with a $50.00 (Canuck)combo Liquid Propane Gas/Carbon Monoxide/Smoke detector. These are also good for furnace trailers because they can still leak both LPG and CO as well as the stove. Fire problems are minimal as the surface is flameless and burns under most items' flash point. Radiant gas heaters that are approved for indoor use are hard to find.
(TOP)
LEAKS (Condensation)
* Sounds like a leak not just condensation. Use BUTYL Tape to re do the roof vent. Take the vent out, scrape the surface and use BUTYL Tape as a seal. This is much more effective than caulking, and more pleasing to the eye.
* Great discovery as part of my restoration, the window seal in the door must be leaking and as a result, as I was swinging the door back and forth I heard a sloshing sound.. Out came the drill and I bored quarter inch holes in the bottom of the door lip. Out came the water.
PAINT
* Go to your paint store (ed. note: What... NOT Canadian Tire??) and find a paint designed to cover Melamine products, such as kitchen cupboards. This product is designed to be flexible (somewhat), adhere to plastic based material and be mold/ stain resistant (Important in our thin insulated, moist eggs). It will work equally well on the interior fiberglass. It can be found as a latex, this is pref. as there is only water clean up and less toxic fumes.
* I don't think I'd use Melamine paint for the interior walls for a few reasons.
1. The drying time between coats (mine took two coats) is approx. 14 hours.
2. The fumes are terrible in such a small space.
3. Melamine is more expensive than regular paint.
4. The cleanup is so much easier with a latex based paint.
I just finished painting the inside of my Boler with acrylic latex enamel and had no problems at all. Two hours between coats. Easy clean up. I did, however, paint the countertop and closet with Melamine.
* I had cut off a small piece of the foam insulation from inside the closet, took it to the hardware store and challenged the guy to come up with a paint that would stick to it. He convinced me that acrylic latex enamel is the way to go and so far he seems to be on the mark. Several folks on this list have advocated some special vinyl paints of various brands but they all seem to be available only in spray cans. I wanted to brush it on. That way I didn't have to mask off the entire inside of the trailer. Our Trillium has quite a bit of texture to it and that may help the bonding. The vinyl covering over the ensolite has more wrinkles than great-Grandma. I don't know about your Boler but I suspect it's pretty much the same stuff.
It took two quarts but the paint definitely seems to be there to stay. And it REALLY brightens up the inside of the trailer.
Of course the color had to be "EGGshell White". :-)
* We just finished painting the interior of our small Boler. Cut a piece of insulation out of the closet, then took it down to the hardware store, they computer matched it, and the color is called a "silken pine", which was a very light green. The interior is just like new!! Used a latex paint. RV Guy says that Melamine paint also works but was too chicken to try that. Latex washed up nicely. My trailer looks brand new inside! Wow!
* (Cleaning Interior Bulkheads) A good quality bathroom cleaner that is meant for removing mold and mildew from ceramic tiles will work instantly, we used tilex and the mold wiped right off, with no scrubbing, and no new paint was necessary.
* When propane is distilled the odor they add to the propane is heavier and tends to collect near the bottom of the tank so when the tank starts getting low the odor gets worse. I checked my tank and sure enough it was about 3/4 empty, replaced it with a full tank problem solved.
SEAM TAPE (Boler)
* Seam tape for sale:
The roll contains 150' and will do 4 trailers. It?s exactly like the original. Cost is $55 includes taxes and shipping and you can sell the remainder of the roll to other Bolerites.
Wolf Shedler
RR1 Lyndhurst Ont. K0E-1N0
613-659-4695
* I've found a neat way to get rid of the seams when I redid the inside. I bought white acoustic sealer (it stays pliable and can be painted) I squeezed that on and smoothed it (water cleanup) then a second coat about 4 inches wide was put on with a wide drywall spreader. 2 days to dry then a light lemon low gloss latex paint and VOILA seams are gone, it's pliable, its clean, it's sealed and it looks better than new. Capitol Iron in Victoria has this stuff. It's made by DAP It's white acoustical sealer bar number 70798 73530.
SEAM TRIM STUFF (Trillium)
* Boler tape is nothing like what is used in Trilliums. The Trillium trim can be bought through any RV dealer or Van Conversion shop. The Trillium trim snaps out of a channel.
The RV places would have it in their catalogues but they usually can't be bothered looking.
Ours is a '75 Trillium and the trim snaps on. Has your puckered? If so, take it off and let it sit in some hot water for a while. This usually works to straighten out most of the puckers although they do come back somewhat after a summer. Look at van and bus conversion shops. These places take highway coaches and turn them into motor homes. This is where we saw the trim. It is identical to what is on our Trillium.
REFRIGERATOR
* In general, you will find that propane offers the most effective cooling. I use a digital temperature unit with an external probe which I leave inside the fridge, so can take accurate readings without opening the door. Mine will go below freezing, but will also have trouble keeping up with 40 C temperatures inside the coach. For longer trips I bring along a portable cooler, and store perishables in that, then light the fridge on propane when I reach my destination. If it doesn't cool well on gas, it could be a dirty burner, or problems with the cooling unit, I have had both, but was able to 'burp' my fridge.
* If that RV guy said freon then he doesn't know what he's talking about. The older RV fridges don't have freon in them, it's ammonia that is heated up by the little flame and then circulates through those tubes. These fridges have to be PERFECTLY LEVEL to work and if used often without being level it can permanently damage them.
We had one in our tent trailer that worked quite well for the first few years and then started to not be cold. It would still make ice in about 2-3 hours but the bottom was just slightly cool, not near cold enough for meat, or beer. We didn't know until recent years about how critical the leveling was so we probably wrecked ours.
They also can get an airlock in them so what you have to do is take it out and turn it either on its left side, right side, or completely upside down. It depends on the make of fridge which way you turn it as turning it the wrong way can do damage. Yep, I know it sounds stupid but if it works!!!!! Check with a knowledgeable RV dealer to find out which way you turn yours.
Another thing is that in these confined areas of the small trailers and tent trailers, the little flame builds up heat that defeats the cooling effect. That is the reason for the fan to help blow out the heat. The fan goes at the back of the fridge usually near the top to blow over the tubes. Most RV dealers sell the 12v fans. Some come on automatically when the heat reaches a certain degree.
Why not try a fan blowing at the tubes and see if it gets cooler. Also keep that side of the trailer in the shade or shade the fridge area. If neither work, then take it out and try the turning trick (didn't work for ours).
* I have fashioned a rudimentary solar battery charging system. First of all, I had two of the ICP brand solar cells, available from Canadian Tire, as one source. I then purchased the ICP charge controller. I then installed a deep cycle battery on the tongue of the trailer. I mounted soft feet on the four corners of the solar panel, and can lift the unit onto the roof of the Boler while camping. Being portable, I can move it about to take advantage of the sun.
I purchased a marine female cigarette lighter receptacle, which I drilled through the galley area and wired it into the 12 volt system which is fed from the 12 volt battery. I then installed the male lighter fitting onto the end of ICP charge controller wiring, and simply plug it in. A LED on the charge controller advises when the battery is fully charged. I also use the lighter fitting to draw power from, and many 12 volt accessories work from a cigarette lighter receptacle.
Works for me, simple but does the trick. By the way, I can dry camp for long periods of time, as I run the fridge on propane, and my furnace does not have a fan.
* You can buy a solar panel that will run the frig but it will be expensive. Take the amperage the frig draws multiply that figure by 12 and the result is the minimum wattage required for a solar panel, then price them out.
* This is for those who have the "Continental" type spare tire carriers on their Bolers.
My trailer came with the spare mount wheel/tire and what I guess is the factory tire cover (Boler, maple leaf, et al). Due to the weather, I postponed outside checks, including having a look at the spare tire. When I finally did remove it, I found a new (literally new, not from the factory new) spare that had never been on the ground. Yet, it was flat as a pancake.
Over time and on someone else's watch, leaves, dirt and other materials had collected between the trailer body and the tire/rim at the lowest point. Of course the decaying leaves and debris acted as a sponge, preventing water to drain. This caused the rim to rust and pit VERY badly, and the resulting rust 'cooties' between tire bead and rim made it impossible for the tire to hold air.
Not wanting to go on a snipe hunt for a Ford Falcon rim, I removed the tire, cut off the valve stem, then proceeded to clean the rim. I used a wire brush for the loose stuff, then a 3M(tm) black abrasive wheel (looks like a fishing net) in a drill motor, followed by sandblasting. I then primed the wheel with a rust-resistant primer, and finished off with a rust-resistant black paint.
After having the tire remounted with a new valve stem, it has held air for almost a month. Maybe I caught it in time.
Since we're getting closer to THE season, it might be a good time to add this to your checklists, as applicable... just in case.
* Stickers can be a little stubborn. Try using a hair dryer and heating them. Then scrape gently with a auto scrapper. (A saftey razor with a scrapper handle cost only a few bucks at the parts store).
SUSPENSION
* -Torsion bar gives independent travel, leaf springs don't.
-Torsion does not require a separate axle. (You can even just brace them on either side, Leafs need an axle.
-Torsion is cheaper, generally, and easier to install maintain.
-Torsion is original equipment on all 13' Eggs, leafs require modification to work and raise the center of balance with out a gain in clearance. (That pesky axle again).
I would recommend the torsion system. For a little more dough you can get them with splined pins and change the angle of the arm. I would simply use a standard set and place a riser plate on them to match whatever extra clearance you want. Just remember the higher you go the more draft you will get pulling it, the air will get under the trailer and cause swaying, and it will get tippy as the height increases.
* The original set up use's 2500 lb torsion arm axles. You can purchase them new for under $200.00 Canuck bucks. The refit and installation should cost about $100.00, and can be done in half a day by any qualified metal worker.
The next point is the rivets. Use stainless steel, not aluminum. Aluminum rots (for lack of better definition) and regular steel rusts. They (stainless steel) are more money but can be purchased through most auto parts dealers. I recommend using stainless bolts and nuts, they can be had in the same sizes and are available at your local building store. The advantage of the bolts/nuts is that they can be tightened over time and removed easily. I use a washer that is backed with rubber and a squirt of "Marine Goop".
* There are two kinds of tires in the world -- car tires and load-carrying tires. With car tires, the best thing is to carry the max pressure on the sidewall; the tires were sized for the car by the manf for the expected load range, which is usually quite predictable for a car. The max pressures will run cool, wear right and be fuel efficient. If the tires are wearing in the center treads, then the pressure should be reduced a little. These are the things we learned about tires at our fathers' knees.
Different story for load-bearing tires, where the range of the load can vary considerably, depending on whether the truck or whatever is empty or full. Load tires have load tables, which specify ranges of pressures and the loads a particular tire can be expected to carry at that pressure. Trailer tires are load tires, but in our case the loads are small, so we have more choices than an OTR trucker.
http://www.goodyear.com/rv/tirecare/loadinflationtables.html
From the Goodyear table for ST205-75-R14, used I believe on the S16, one may find three load range tires - B, C and D, with pressures going as low as 15 psi to as high as 65 psi.
The B, at a max of 35 psi will carry 1430 lbs.
The C, at a max of 50 psi will carry 1760 lbs
The D, at a max of 65 psi will carry 2040 lbs
If your trailer weighs 3,000 lbs, with 300 as tongue weight, then each tire carries 2,700/2 = 1,350 lbs and a load range B, inflated to 35 psi would prolly be just fine. But if your tire is a C, and you inflate it to 50 psi, you now lack about 600 lbs of load on your suspension and it will be stiffer. With a D at 65 psi, you lack well over 1/2 ton...
BTW -- If you use a WDH, you must also weigh the trailer axle with WDH set up because WDH moves some of the truck rear axle load to the trailer axle.
If you must err in not knowing weights and having tables, then it is safer to use the higher pressures so the tires don't heat up and weaken. However, using higher pressures will also make your suspension much stiffer and put more stress on trailer components (rivets start to pop, cracks appear, etc., if too much stress), your tires may be more vulnerable to road damage (hard balloons are easier to pop than soft balloons), will pull much harder in soft stuf like sand and mud, and will tend to have all the wear in the center of the tread (which may not be important to us as egg tires are more likely to good bad with time than with wear. Jacking up the pressures for peace of mind before starting a long road trip at higher speeds is prolly a good thing for most people. Also important to have two tires of the same size, construction and load range, but if I were mixing load ranges, I would use the same pressures in each, based on the lower range's capacities.
WIRING
* You can buy a 7-pin hookup at Canadian tire for about $15.00 and wire it up yourself and it should plug right in provided nobody has messed with the wires on the trailer's end. If you have a 4-wire setup from your truck you can also by a 4 into 6 or 7 wire adapter at any hitch-shop, dealer, or try Canadian tire as well.
If you're not comfortable with it, get your local hitch shop to wire up your truck.
* The picture here is for a 4-way flat. This system runs only your towing lights and does not charge your battery.
First things first - your vehicle should have the side with only the ground contact showing, the trailer gets the end with the three contacts exposed. (This is because they are not "Hot" when not plugged in).
White = Ground. Make sure this wire has a good clean contact with the frame on both trailer and tow vehicle.
Brown = Running/Marker lights. This is the circuit that connects to your parking lights. You can use it to put running/marker lights anywhere on your trailer.
Yellow = Left turn/Brake.
Green = Right turn/Brake.
Ensure all of your lights are grounded to the trailer frame to complete the circuit.
Below is a crude diagram of the trailer lighting and a picture of the trailer end of the connector.
* If your trailer is equipped with a six -connector plug, the color code is as follows.
Black is 12 volt power
White is ground (if nothing works the problem is in this wire)
Brown is all clearance or running lights (if one light is out it's the bulb)
Yellow is left turn
Green is right turn (if one or the other doesn't work it's the bulb)
Blue is electric brakes if there are any.
THERE ARE NO SEPARATE BRAKE LIGHT WIRES TO HOOK UP, THEY ARE IN THE TURN SIGNAL CIRCUIT AND COME ON TOGETHER WHEN THE BRAKE IS APPLIED.
* A common issue with fibreglass trailers is getting a good ground connection. Lights can be dim, can flicker and be persnickity due to a poor ground. Mine was like that, and I purchased a bus bar from an automotive parts shop, drilled a hole through the floor of the trailer near the frame, drilled a small hole into the frame, and connected a wire between the bus bar and the frame, using a metal screw. That is a good ground. I then wired all the ground to the terminals on the bus bar, and have had no trouble.
* Don't assume it's the bulb if it doesn't work. Very often it's the sockets not making good connections. Over the years they get corroded. Use a wire brush or a bit of fine sandpaper to make sure they are clean and making good connections. (A Dremel is also an excellent tool for this.)
* Now for the basic electrical course in one easy statement: In order for current to flow in any circuit there must be a power path into the work being done (light) and there must also be a path through the bulb and the path must then reach ground (through clean conections)to get back to the negative side of the battery (ground) THAT'S IT IN A NUTSHELL
Have fun.
WINDOWS
* We are in Langley, BC and purchased and restored our 13 ft Boler last year. The man we bought it from had the side windows replaced by "RV Camper & Trailer Clinic on 5670 Production Way, Langley, BC and their phone number is (604) 530-0911 or 530-3052, ask for Chuck. Chuck's WEB address is CHUCK-RVCAMPER@HOME.COM. They did a great job on the side windows-they put in a slider rather than the louver, which we prefer, and finished them with the original looking rubber.
* Be sure to use BUTYL Tape for the reinstall of the windows and or vents. I also favor using stainless bolts and nuts with a rubber backed washer instead of rivets, as this allows the seals to be tightened, and is easier to do minor repairs and maintenance.
* The side windows [can] be removed and new Butyl Tape applied. This is a putty like strip that seals the window to the body. The front and back windows (of a Boler) use an automotive type seal. They [can] be removed and sealant applied in the gasket groove as they are replaced.
* Yes there is a rubber strip that you could install yourself. Check with your local glass shop. I've used the rubber strip for installing glass into hot rods. The hardest part is to make sure the ends come togeather once you have cut it. The window is layed into place (the new rubber and glass placed into the opening) and the rubber seal that I am refering to will fold together with a little (roller) tool. Some shops might loan it or show you where to purchase one. If you should use this style of seal, be careful with the tool. I was warned by the glasser it slips out and could get you in the eye. (One close call and you understand.) The tool causes the two lips of the rubber seal to lock together thus compressing and holding the window into place. As I say, the hardest part is cutting it to fit and if you cut it too long you can adjust, too short and it's back to the glass shop. This stripping was used in buses, large trucks and in Bolers
* I took mine out and put them back in and they don't leak. I had to borrow a special tool from a glass shop to put the centre bead back in but I replaced the two windows in less than thirty minutes on my first try. If I had to do it again I would make sure that the foam attached to the inside walls was smooth under the rubber seal before I started to install the centre bead. Remember to lubricate the groove before you put the bead back in, it goes in a lot easier. Wet the grove with water or a soap mix.
* Be aware that if your rubber is very old, dry or cracked, it may break to pieces when you remove the old plexi glass. Mine did. I bought new rubber from Scamp Trailers and it is exactly the same as the old. Check about getting Lexan instead of plexi glass. I used Lexan and it wasn't all that much more expensive than the plexi. Lexan is stronger, more impact resistant, stays clear longer, and doesn't crack as easily. I took my old window to a local glass company and had the lexan custom cut. The two windows cost me around $100 US. The rubber and lock strip was about $40 or so. They had to order the sheets of Lexan because the windows are 3/16" thick. Check to see what yours are before ordering. The next thickness down was 1/4". Too thin. Be sure that the new windows are cut EXACTLY the same size as the old. Also be aware that the windows are NOT easy to install. The windows come flat and must be forced into a curved opening. I glued the rubber to the body with Goop adhesive first, then put the windows in. Still a hard job. You have to put the bottom quarter of the window in first and then, using a special tool and lots of dishwashing liquid as lube, start putting in the lock strip. You then, with lots of muscle and sweat, continue all the way around the window, simultaneously putting the window in the groove and following closely with the lock strip. You need two helpers to keep the window positioned and from popping out of the groove until the window is all in. Then pound on the rubber all around with the heel of your hand or a rubber mallet to fully seat the window. After all this, I would definitely recommend having the glass company install them. It will save you untold grief and bad language, sweat, toil etc. I didn't have a clue to the trick of installation before starting though. I only figured it out after several attempts and trying different methods. Lots of cussing. Good luck.
* So as part of the rebuild of our new 1973, I decided to try to do something about the foggy plexiglass front/rear windows. I figured I'd have to replace them but I had some Mirror Glaze Plastic cleaner and polish. What an amazing difference. After 15 minutes of elbow grease, the windows now look like glass. What was previously fog due to millions of tiny round scratches is now completely clear. This stuff is amazing. It comes in two plastic oval bottles. One blue, one white. I can highly recommend it.
I just checked my Acklands Grainger body shop catalog and they carry it. Part numbers:
Meguiar's Clear Plastic Polish - MGZ M1008
Meguiar's Clear Plastic Cleaner - MGZ M1708
* We replaced the inner gear box which sits inside the window, and the handle. The windows wouldn't open or close very well, so we replaced them. Following is the name of the part and the part number. Please note that we found this in the discount bin at our local RV store, so I don't know whether these are made anymore. Thought I would post here in case someone finds this useful.
#821CK - Arm Gear Oper. - 2½ " Arm Kit
These work well in my 1973 13' Boler.
COOL TRICKS (that didn't fit anywhere else)
* I was reading the thread about lighting behind the trailer, backing it up in the dark and I thought I'd pass on my approach to this significant irritation. I experienced this problem when we first got our tent trailer. My wife just didn't want to get out and direct me into the parking spot when it was wet out (????????). To resolve it, I bought a pair of yellow lens fog lights at Princess Auto for $12. and mounted one of them under the rear bumper of the trailer, pointing down. I wired it into the backup light circuit of the car, although you could do it more simply and just hard wire to your trailer battery with a toggle switch. When I put the car in reverse, the light comes on, bathes the area behind, under and around the rear of the trailer in a soft yellow light. It gives me lots of light to watch for dips, holes, tree roots, etc. without looking like a spotlight and disturbing everyone around us, since it points at the ground. One of them has always been more than enough with the tent trailer, and I'm planning on using the second one on the Boler. The only caution I'd have would be that you have to make sure if you hard wire it that you remember to shut it off.
* Another thing that has always been a problem was getting the hitch ball and the hitch lined up. Backing up and watching someone direct you into position waving their arms in a circle and yelling "no, that way!" and pointing in two directions at once made me a bit nuts, so I took two pieces of hardwood dowel 2 ft. long, mounted them in a block of 2X4, put a 1 in. rare earth magnet in the base of each and stuck an old tennis ball on the other end. Hook up your trailer, then put one of these assemblies on the tongue, one on your hitch mount and line them up so they (the tennis balls) touch. Mark the locations with paint,a piece of tape, etc. and remove them. When it's time to hook up, stick them in the marked locations, look in the mirror and back up until the tennis balls touch. You're in the perfect position every time. Be careful of the rare earth magnets, though. The one's I bought are from Lee valley Tools, and if you get a finger tip between it and the trailer hitch, expect a BIG blood blister! These things really grab! By the way, total cost was well under ten bucks.
* Here are the dimension of the inside doors of my 74 Boler.
Top cupboard the 3 doors are 12" X 9 3/4".
The cuttlery drawer is 13 1/2" X 4 1/2".
The bottom pantry is 10 1/4" X 17 1/2".
The closet is 18" X 41".
Hope that will help you.
That's all for now. More may be added later. Possibly in a format that's easier to navigate.
Stay tuned.